Bike Japan
Many, many years ago, before I realized traveling the world was an option and was content to just ride my bicycle for fun and transportation, I happened across an article about the Shimanami Kaido. It was probably this one, as I was stuck in bike-unfriendly Texas and Japan seemed like a fairy tale dream.
I bookmarked it. Saved it to Pinterest. Did the “if I ever happen to get to Japan (ha ha, yeah right), I’ll have to give that a shot”.
And then United had a Black Friday airfare sale, and suddenly I could not only fly to Japan for $50 (yeah, I know!), I could use all of that money I wasn’t spending on the airfare on things like a Japan Rail Pass and a bike rental!
So that’s great, I can hear you thinking, but what the hell is the Shimanami Kaido?
The short answer: it’s a 73 km (approximately 45 miles) bicycle superhighway that connects several islands on the inland sea of Japan.
The long answer: it’s a cyclist’s paradise where it’s darn near impossible to get lost and gives you a glipse of a piece of Japan wholly unlike bustling Tokyo.
I took three high-speed trains between Tokyo and Onomichi and still had time to explore this nice little town by the sea! I trekked the Temple Walk, met some adorable Shrine Kitties (of course), and grabbed some convenience store dinner. I checked in to the Green Hill Hotel in Onomichi, which was helpfully situated between the bike rental station and the ferry dock to the first island of the Shimanami Kaido. They were even able to transfer my luggage to my next hotel the following day so I didn’t have to figure out a way to strap it to my bike!
An early highlight of the ride was this surprise dinosaur just waiting for cylist selfies!
So what’s so special about this bike route? Well first, there’s a dinosaur!
No, but seriously, dinosaurs aside it’s STILL amazing! First of all, it’s pretty much impossible to get lost thanks to the blue stripe on the road that conveniently lets you know that yes, you are still on the bike path and not lost somewhere in Japan. There’s also maps and signage, though mostly in Japanese.
Second, it’s designed for cyclists. On the first bridge between islands, for example, cyclists are on their own path BELOW the main roadway. So we get shade AND safety! It’s the best of both worlds! Also, all of the inclines on the Shimanami Kaido are specially built, gently curving bike paths that make getting up to the massive bridge level a pleasant climb!
Third, though you’re biking mostly alone through relative wilderness, you’re never “alone”. There’s always a museum, a restaurant, a shrine, a market, or a temple to wander around and cool off. On Onimisha Island there’s a Cyclists Sanctuary monument and park with restaurants, ice cream, a market, restrooms, and aid station. Do some extra research for restaurants along the route, because apparently I missed all of the great ones!
My only regret about my Shimanami Kaido adventure was that I was limited to about a week in Japan and so only gave myself ONE DAY to complete the ride. Take my advice and give yourself at least two so you have time to sightsee along the way!
Also don’t forget the GOOD padded bike shorts, because ten hours on a bike seat is a long time if you know what I mean!
